Daily Routine · Tarantula

How do I maintain a tarantula enclosure while working full‑time?

Feed your tarantula every 5–7 days and check temperature twice daily; a 10‑minute routine fits around a 9‑to‑5 job.

Morning quick check

At 7:30am grab the digital thermometer and read the enclosure temperature. Aim for 72–78°F (22–26°C); if it falls below 70°F (21°C) turn the heat mat on for 5minutes and re‑measure. Record the reading in a notebook or phone app so you can spot trends over weeks. While you’re there, glance at the hygrometer and note the humidity level.

If humidity reads under 50% for a species that prefers 60–70%, mist the top inch of substrate with a spray bottle for about 2seconds per 4inches of surface. Use distilled water to avoid mineral buildup. Check that the water dish holds at least 1cup (240ml) of fresh water and that the lid is snug to prevent spills. A quick visual scan for torn hides or escaped prey finishes the routine.

  • Read thermometer and log temperature.
  • Read hygrometer and log humidity.
  • Mist lightly if humidity <50%.
  • Inspect water dish and refill if needed.
  • Look for molting signs or dead prey.

Evening maintenance

At 6:00pm pull out a feeder of appropriately sized insects. For a 6‑inch legspan tarantula, offer 1–2 crickets that are no longer than 1inch (2.5cm) – roughly 1/3 of the leg length. Place the prey near the hide so the spider can ambush without excessive stress. If the tarantula does not eat within 24hours, remove the leftovers to keep the enclosure clean.

After feeding, wipe the water dish with a paper towel and refill it with fresh water. Spot‑clean any droppings or shed exoskeleton pieces using a soft brush; this takes about 3minutes. Finally, turn off any supplemental lighting that you used for feeding and set the thermostat to maintain 75°F (24°C) overnight.

  • Offer prey sized ≤1/3 legspan.
  • Remove uneaten prey after 24hours.
  • Wipe and refill water dish.
  • Spot‑clean waste with a brush.

Weekly deep clean

Choose Saturday morning for a 20‑minute deep clean. Scoop out roughly 1/3 of the substrate (about 2inches deep) and replace it with fresh coconut fiber or sifted sand. This prevents ammonia buildup and keeps humidity stable. While the substrate is out, spray the glass interior with a 1:10 vinegar‑water solution and wipe with a lint‑free cloth.

Next, inspect the enclosure seals and the ventilation holes for dust or spider silk. Tighten any loose screws on the lid and verify that the thermostat probe sits on the same spot each week. Finally, reset the temperature reading to confirm the heat mat still delivers 75°F (24°C) at the warm spot.

  • Replace 1/3 of substrate.
  • Clean glass with vinegar‑water.
  • Check seals and ventilation.
  • Verify thermostat probe placement.

Monthly habitat overhaul

On the first Sunday of each month, empty the entire enclosure and sterilize the glass in a dishwasher on the top rack (no detergent needed). Bake new substrate at 250°F (121°C) for 30minutes to kill hidden mites. Re‑assemble the hide, water dish, and heat mat exactly as before, then add the cooled substrate to a depth of 4inches.

After refilling, use a calibrated hygrometer to set a target humidity of 60% for most terrestrial species; adjust misting frequency until the reading stays between 55% and 65% for three consecutive days. Run the thermostat on a 12‑hour day/night cycle, keeping daytime at 78°F (26°C) and nighttime at 70°F (21°C). Log the new parameters in your care sheet.

  • Sterilize glass and bake substrate.
  • Add 4‑inch layer of fresh substrate.
  • Set humidity target 55–65%.
  • Program thermostat 78°F day / 70°F night.

Busy‑day shortcuts

If a meeting runs late, you can skip the morning misting as long as the humidity stayed above 55% the previous evening. Simply record the temperature and move on to work; the enclosure’s microclimate will hold for another 12hours. You may also postpone the weekly substrate scoop by one day; a 2‑day delay rarely harms a healthy adult.

Keep a simple spreadsheet with columns for date, temperature, humidity, and feeding. Set a phone alarm for 7:30am and 6:00pm so the checks become automatic. Even on a 10‑hour overtime day, a 5‑minute glance at the thermometer and water dish is enough to avoid emergencies.

  • Skip misting if humidity >55%.
  • Postpone substrate change by ≤2days.
  • Use alarm reminders for 7:30am and 6:00pm.

Keep reading about Tarantula: Tarantula care sheet

Related questions

How often should I feed my tarantula?

Offer prey every 5–7days for adult females and every 3–4days for juveniles. A 1‑inch cricket works for a 5‑inch legspan; larger spiders can handle 1‑2‑inch roaches. Adjust frequency upward if the spider appears thin or after a molt.

What temperature range is safe during winter?

Maintain a daytime range of 72–78°F (22–26°C) and allow night temperatures to dip to 68°F (20°C) but never below 65°F (18°C). A thermostat set to 75°F (24°C) with a 2‑hour off‑cycle keeps the gradient stable. Use a heat mat rather than a lamp to avoid overheating.

How do I prevent mold in the substrate?

Keep humidity below 80% and mist only when the hygrometer reads under 50%. Replace at least 1/4 of the substrate every 2weeks and bake new sand at 250°F (121°C) for 30minutes before use. Remove any visible fungal spots immediately with a cotton swab dipped in diluted hydrogen peroxide.

Not veterinary advice. This guide covers husbandry — housing, feeding, cleaning and handling. If your tarantula is injured, off food unusually long, or behaving abnormally, contact a veterinarian.

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