Leopard Gecko care sheet
A hardy, handleable gecko that needs belly heat and a humid hide. This is the complete leopard gecko care guide: housing, feeding, cleaning, routine, handling, life stages and the setup checklist.
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Quick facts
- Typical lifespan
- 15–20 years
- Adult size
- 8–11 inches
- Enclosure (adult)
- 20 gallon long minimum; 40 gallon preferred
- Warm side
- 88–92°F (31–33°C)
- Activity
- Crepuscular / nocturnal
Environment: Warm side 88–92°F (31–33°C), cool side 75–80°F (24–27°C). Humidity 30–40% ambient, 70–80% inside the humid hide. Low-level UVB beneficial; no bright lighting needed. Activity: Crepuscular. Diet: Insectivore.
Housing & setup
- A 20 gallon long is the accepted minimum for one adult; a 40 gallon breeder gives a much better temperature gradient.
- Three hides are the standard: warm, cool, and a humid hide in the middle kept damp with moss or paper towel for shedding.
- Heat from below (heat mat on a thermostat) works well because this species absorbs warmth through its belly.
- Avoid loose sand — impaction risk. Paper towel, tile or a compacted soil/clay mix is safer.
Feeding
How often: Juveniles daily; sub-adults every other day; adults 2–3 times a week.
How much: As many appropriately sized insects as they will eat in about 10–15 minutes.
- Staple feeders: dubia roaches, crickets, mealworms in moderation.
- Dust insects with calcium at most feeds and a multivitamin occasionally.
- Never feed insects wider than the space between the gecko's eyes.
- Always provide a shallow water dish; keep a calcium dish in the enclosure if you prefer, but dusting is more reliable.
Cleaning & hygiene
- Spot-clean daily — geckos usually use one corner.
- Replace the humid hide substrate weekly.
- Full clean every 4–6 weeks.
- Wash the water dish every few days. Stagnant water is a common bacterial source.
Care routine
Daily
- Check warm and cool temperatures
- Spot-clean
- Fresh water
- Check humid hide moisture
Weekly
- Feed schedule per age
- Refresh humid hide substrate
- Weigh a growing gecko
Monthly
- Full clean and disinfect
- Check thermostat probe contact
- Replace substrate
Handling
- Let the gecko walk onto your hand rather than grabbing from above.
- Never lift or restrain by the tail — they can drop it and it will not grow back the same.
- Keep sessions short and close to a soft surface; they can jump.
- Handle in the evening when they are naturally active.
Life stages
Juvenile (0–6 months)
Feeds daily, grows fast, needs a humid hide available from day one.
Sub-adult (6–12 months)
Feeding every other day; adult colours develop.
Adult (12 months+)
Feeds 2–3 times a week; males housed alone, females can sometimes be kept in groups with caution.
Setup checklist
Everything you want in place before your leopard gecko comes home:
- 20 gallon long (or larger) enclosure
- Thermostat-controlled heat mat
- Three hides including a humid hide
- Digital thermometers at both ends
- Safe substrate (tile, paper towel, or soil/clay mix)
- Shallow water dish
- Calcium powder and a feeder insect tub
Not veterinary advice. This guide covers husbandry — housing, feeding, cleaning and handling. If your animal is injured, lethargic, off food for an unusual length of time or behaving abnormally, contact a veterinarian.
Frequently asked questions
Do leopard geckos need UVB?
They can survive without it if you dust food with D3, but low-level UVB is increasingly recommended and improves activity and appetite. If you use it, keep it low-output — this is a shade-dwelling species.
How often should I feed an adult leopard gecko?
Two to three times a week, offering as many correctly sized insects as it eats in 10–15 minutes. Feed in the evening.
Why is my leopard gecko not shedding properly?
Most often the humid hide has dried out or the humidity is too low. Keep a damp hide available at all times rather than only when you notice a shed starting.